Updates

The beauty of cyberspace is access to vast resources that eventually provide answers to most questions.

Question: What was the original use of the building at 3504 Washington?
Christian Herman answers:

“The building at 3504 Washington was an Arby’s restaurant in 1969, it’s original use. The interior makes use of the color psychology of the day: orange and brown to stimulate the appetite. I remember orange vinyl booths.”

CORRECTION
And cyberspace brings about fast edits! Upon seeing this post, Darren let me know that the building couldn’t have been an Arby’s, since there was already one at Grand and Lindell. This building was a Neba’s Roast Beef restaurant, as evidenced here (scroll halfway down).

Question: What’s the story on the sculpture plopped in the middle of a South City block?
Grant Alexander answers:

“The story behind “White Mountains” is pretty interesting. My friend, Rick helped assemble it when it came to the STL area in 1978 but this isn’t where it was first built. It was conceived and constructed in NY by artist Clark Murray. Its birthdate was probably in the early or mid ’70’s but I don’t know for sure. In NY the piece sat in front of PS-1, a school that, to my understanding, had been adapted for use by artists.

In ’77 a friend of Murray’s named Adam Aaronson(sp?) saw the sculpture and wanted to use it in STL. Mr. Aaronson ran some banks here in town and he employed local artists to make furniture, sculpture or other artwork for his banks. (This is where Rick enters the story, he was working for Aaronson) Murray agreed to have the “Mountains” moved to STL and they sat in a field behind the State Bank on St. Charles Rock Rd. for a time.

From there it was loaned to Laumier Sculpture Park and was on display there. According to Rick the sculpture disappeared from the park when the director changed and from there he lost track of it. About two years ago he was riding through the neighborhood, saw the sculpture and was dumbfounded as to how it made its way to its current location. As far as he knows it still belongs to Murray but he doubts the artist knows its whereabouts.

Currently the firm I work for is working on the new Pepose Vision Center (in Chesterfield) and Rick is working on the interiors. He is trying to persuade the Pepose family to refurbish the “White Mountains” and install the piece in front of their new building. So the life of these tubes is far from over.”

Marina City

Marina City, Chicago, IL
This site just never gets old.

And it even works at night. Well, except for the House of Blues building, whose cornice outline reminds me of strands of rolled-out Play-Doh applied by a sugar-jittery toddler. Here’s why we were at The House Of Rules.

Someday, I’ll get in an extensive photographic tour of all eras of Chicago’s architecture, a legacy of which its citizens are rightly proud. So proud, they have a foundation that hosts tours that bring in yards of money, respect and awe.

Has anyone in St. Louis has thought of doing something similar? Just asking…

Cleveland High School

4352 Louisiana Avenue
South St. Louis, MO
The Board of Education quickly dismissed Cleveland High, and the neighborhood surrounding it refuses to accept such cavalier declarations.

This issue is inspiring because it’s about so much more than preserving a worthy building; it’s about education, health, safety and preserving the fiber of a community. A neighborhood that knows its strengths has got in the face of an institution that shuns intuitive understanding for facts and figures. The Alliance understands their foe and counterattacks with calm and considered data, alternate plans and requests for proof of accurate accountability.

This issue does highlight the need for an all-encompassing understanding of STL city oversights, but I also see the first steps of a sound template for Smart Activism. The Alliance is working in an organized and media-savvy manner, and if this form of fight-back can be sustained, it will go much further toward preserving our buildings and communities than does resignation, incredulity or aldermanic recalls.

The titles of activities for the figures depicted in the tableau above, from left to right: Chemist, Glass Blower, Blacksmith, Stone Cutter, Carpenter, Churning, Brickmaker, Spinning & Printer.

The main entrance to the building is truly breathtaking, and perfectly maintained.

When you join the Alliance To Save Cleveland High, you get e-mail updates about what’s happening.

Good news from the most recent update:
“On Tuesday 6/13/06, the Board of Education of St. Louis Public School formally passed the resolution to support the community’s effort to save Cleveland High School. It directs and authorizes the Superintendent and the School District staff to work with the Alliance and the community to develop solutions that would save the building and return students back as soon as possible, among other positive measures.”

I can’t help but think about St. Aloysius when looking at Cleveland High. Much like the former church on The Hill, this complex of buildings shapes and defines an immediate neighborhood. In both cases, the building existed first, and the neighborhood was built around it. Erasing the buildings would alter the surroundings in a most unattractive and distracting manner.

But I feel better knowing the Alliance is on this, and hope that it becomes a model for how to conserve neighborhoods and their important institutions.

A Mies Teardown?

Motions have been made to get rid of a modern master’s building to replace it with something smaller and more technologically modern.

I love how D.C. Mayor Williams declares this “a social issue,” and ends with “Form must follow function.” Very pithy speech-making, that.

The Ludwig Mies van der Rohe building was completed in 1972, so it doesn’t meet the 50-year criteria for historic designation. But witness the historical status granted to St. Louis’ Pet Building, just a few years older than the D.C. building, and know that special allowances can be made. The miles of paperwork needed to get that designation should have been started months ago, but it’s not yet a lost cause.

Thank you to Dominic for the heads up on this item.

Nice Day For It

South Side, St. Louis, MO
Earlier this evening, I was pedaling through a series of quiet little streets right behind Resurrection Church. I pass through there somewhat regularly because it’s a good short cut for avoiding Meramec Avenue (too much broken glass on that street), but it never caught my camera eye.

But today the light was so perfect, all the brick sparkled like diamonds, and the shortcut became a long distraction. The spell was broken when I overheard a lady, chatting on the phone on her front porch, make comment about a person on a bike “ridin’ in circles, takin’ pictures.” Figured that was my cue to pedal off.

Pius XII Library, St. Louis University

3650 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis University Campus
St. Louis City, MO
The Pius XII Memorial Library is something I’d have never known about if not for Claire Nowak-Boyd getting a job there, and taking us for an all-access tour of the building.

Though it has a vintage of 1958, my jaundice eye caused by self-absorbed SLU built-environment activities expected a bunch of bland nothingness. Upon entering, I first saw the Founder’s Wall (above). While impressive with both the name dropping (the by-gone days of Stix, Baer & Fuller, Granite City Steel Corporation) and immense sheets of arresting marble, I still only registered a typical collegiate vibe.

The ground floor southern wall of the library is nothing but glass (above), creating that wispy hint of a wall idea that was so novel, so liberating in late ’50s architecture. A librarian came over to chat with Claire, and wound up giving us an instant history lesson of the place.

The middle of this glass wall used to be the main entrance when there was an actual street running in front of it. Once SLU reconfigured the street grid for campus greenery, the entrance was glassed in, and one now enters only from Lindell.

He also confirmed what was becoming apparent; this building’s interior remains virtually untouched since it opened in 1958. It’s rare that anything on this campus remains untouched. It was hinted that some remodeling may be in its future.

Behind the ground floor’s main room are some offices and amenities. The black and gold marble (above) against a modern take on stained glass has a curious tension to it.

Then I look at the wall opposite (above) and I’m transported back to the set of The Apartment. This is just like a hallway at C.C. Baxter’s place of employment, Consolidated Life, all sleek and generously stretched, professional and showy at the same time.

Come off the elevator on the 2nd floor, and it’s instant nostalgia for a time never personally experienced, but man, did it look great. Seemed so much more civilized to use a phone booth (above). The remaining ones should be rechristened Cell Booths, and those who scream into their cells should be strongly encouraged to use them.

The black metal, thick wood doors (note the subtle offset of the knob to the key plate) and ceiling-to-floor reach is carried throughout the entire building, never missing a step. The same font (a heavier Lever House) is used to label every door (even the janitor’s closet). This consistency of detail lends an air of authority and grace.

Turn the corner (above) and some new elements are added to the palette . A slab wall of narrow-course brick tilts up against the uniform door, and a wall of glass completes the frame. Further down this brick wall, the rose-colored marble from the ground floor rejoins the concert in progress. With a subtle touch, the mood went from Manhattan to Los Angeles. I saw The Beverly Hillbillies Mr. Drysdale striding out the door.

After leaving the office areas, one is hit with the vertical immensity of the main library space (above). A perfectly Grecian line of columns rings all perimeter walls, with slender windows matching them foot-for-foot. The brick hinted at outside Mr. Drysdale office makes its own chain of columns. Note the patterns of the lights recessed into the metal acoustical tile; it holds throughout the entire building and adds a whimsical touch to what could be a cold, austere space. All that height! And the “room” is just as wide as it is tall – just vast and airy. But it feels warm.

The copious amounts of natural light streaming through banks of simple white sheers create warmth, as do endless rows of what the building was made for: books.

Endless volume is bisected with a 3rd floor balcony within the center of the space. Stainless steel banisters top a platform that serves as ceiling for below, a floor for above, and also conveniently houses duct work, using the air vents as a decorative element. The rows of books are in a low-slung cozy space under the platform. The study of those books takes place in the surrounding gallery of light and air.

Note Claire in the above photo. Note what she’s sitting on. Know that most all of the furniture and fixtures are the original late ’50s vintage. Know that I almost passed out from too much bliss.

Here’s where the study gallery turned into the set of a Doris Day movie!
The 1″x1″ wall of tiles (various blues, with beige, white & black accents) is repeated throughout the entire building. It is like the grass from which all elements grow. Up against a completely uninterrupted wall of this, steel blue-gray leather slipper chairs and a simple, bi-level coffee table float above the blue-gray carpet. It literally looks like something Doris Day’s interior decorator character in Pillow Talk would have pulled off for a corporate client.

This is, literally, a round table meeting. A spontaneous circle among the rectangles was a nice touch, as are the blue cloth-covered slipper chairs in the far-ground (above). Again, it must be noted that all of this original furniture is in exquisite condition. Considering it’s a campus library in service for almost 50 years, there’s nowhere near the amount of use-marks that would be expected. Does it not get used as much as I think it should? Or have all generations of SLU students been overly respectful to the chairs and tables? But I’m so grateful for this oddity.

Private study stalls (above) have matching display cases throughout the building. Danish Modern in shape, they also share a wood grain with all the office doors, which once again shows the scope of repetitive detail. The designers considered every inch of this building, and treated them all with a subtle hand.

Still on the second floor, the periodical section (above) takes on a slightly different flavor. The wood chairs are positively Eames-like; the tilted wood counter is Amish Modern.

Massive, modern artwork (above, left & right) hangs from the brick column walls, and from the look of it, it was all created and procured within 5 years of the building’s erection. That’s artwork placed…

…and then there’s artwork found. Peering over the edge of the 3rd floor balcony (above), the banks of file cabinets and card catalogs are a 3-D cubist painting.

Even the utility stairwells are a work of art. That same tile covers all of the stairwell walls, and taffy-pulled steel rails and banisters snake above white, granite-look tile flooring. These stairwells feels like an upscale dining room in a 1950s downtown department store; the kind of restaurant where Ladies Who Lunched had cucumber finger sandwiches and extra dry martinis while a water fountain trickled seductively in the middle of the room. This may be the only stairwell to ever evoke such strong images in my head, and I could happily camp on these landings for days.

New sections were added to the library in the early 1980s, and while the materials were downgraded to drywall and pine, they stayed true to the sparseness of line and the generosity of scale. The dramatic circular staircase (above) disappearing into a circular mass is a particularly cool touch. On first glance, I assumed it was original, but it’s part of the new additions. A round of applause goes to the remodeling architects for such a sensitive homage to the rest of the building.

Every single bathroom in the building has a completely different color scheme. The men’s room shown above is all Playboy Club bright, while other versions (of either gender) have powder blue, coral or burgundy stalls against complimentary shades of wall tile. I imagine the original designers having to storyboard all the bathrooms, to make sure they didn’t repeat themselves, and that commitment to that level of detail brings a tear to my eye.

No matter where your eye lands, there are underplayed but sophisticated details that have remained largely undisturbed. It was built on a grand scale, but pays attention to how humans will use it, right down to the countless vintage hand-crank pencil sharpeners that blend in to the surfaces. The sky blue metal bookshelf (above) is utilitarian, but has details that harmonize with its immediate surroundings. The entire space is a symphony.

As strange as this may sound, the above space reminded me of a Palladio villa; the scale, the symmetry, the quiet quality of light and sound harnessed by a soaring column. It’s both classic and modern. This library building is a jewel, and I pray to the architectural gods that Father Biondi overlooks this gem for several more years.

Eichler For Sale

The above photo is borrowed from Eichler Homes of Southern California.

I got a wonderful note from Barry, who is part of a team that cultivates and sells houses designed by Joseph Eichler. Check them out here.

The proactive culture that has sprung up around Eichler is heartwarming, to say the least. Since trends start on the coasts and spread inward, is St. Louis just a few years away from cultivating and cherishing Harris Armstrong houses?

And since the shout out to enlightened realtors, it’s only proper to recommend my genius friend, Marla Griffin and her firm The BuyerSide.

Along with Mike Blake, Marla was the heart and soul of the Cicero’s Basement Bar. Today, she is a buyer’s agent, and is on her way to rethinking, re-conceptualizing and re-establishing real estate in a way that makes logical sense.

We need firms like BuyerSide and Eichler Homes to re-contextualize how we buy homes in general, and how to preserve and recycle modern architecture, specifically.

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Carondelet Park Restrooms

Carondelet Park
St. Louis, MO
I’ve always loved the shape of this restroom building, especially how the front pillars end atop the benches. There’s a pair of them in the park; the one above is on the far eastern end, near the giant mulch piles, the other at the tennis courts. Both are closed.

Considering all the improvements that continue at the park (the new walk/bike path is excellent, and thank you for reactivating all of the drinking fountains), maybe they’ll revive the mid-century mod bathrooms.

Mod baths in old city parks is a common sight, especially on the North Side. Wonder if there was a major Parks Beautification bill that went through City Hall sometime in the late 1950s? I’ve thought about documenting all of them, but hanging around city park johns with a camera doesn’t seem the wisest thing to do, know what I mean?

Mid-Town Washington Boulevard

2600 Block Washington Avenue
St. Louis MO
The westward evolution of downtown St. Louis is a precise architectural timeline, with the oldest buildings closest to the river, the youngest peering earnestly over the city/county line.

In the heart of downtown St. Louis they’ve destroyed too many historical skyscrapers to create modern skyscrapers. In Mid-Town, mid-century was about tearing down chunks of less old buildings to inject some modern into the industrial and entertainment area.

Guth Lighting has been in business since 1902. They moved into this building (above) when it was brand new in 1948. They moved out sometime in the very early 2000’s, and permits show that in 2006, someone intends “60 units” in the future.

3504 Washington Blvd.
Heading west towards Grand, this building (above) appears to both soar and hover among low-slung industrial buildings. Just one block east of The Fabulous Fox Theater, it sprang to life in 1969, and could someone please recall what it was originally? Please.

In defiance of the expiring streetcar lines, this building was part of Mid-Town’s late 1960s stab at accepting the permanence of car culture. The other Automobile Outreach building is our UFO at Grand Blvd. & Hwy 40. Built in 1968 as a Phillips 66, it became a Naugles before morphing into Del Taco. Both of these buildings are freakishly cool, and how they’ve managed to survive the never-ending development upheavals of the area is a mystery.

This Googie specimen is now Sunrise Chinese Restaurant. That it looks like a cross between a bird in flight and a dead bug on its back is not the best mix of imagery for a fast food joint. But the building really does overshadow its function, and the restaurant did get an A rating from the food inspectors.


The salad bowl with a chevron lid is in real good condition, and the kind of building that was designed for people to gawk at. So, I was a little dismayed when the owners asked why I was photographing it. You think they’d be used to it.

Pulitzer Arts
3716 Washington Blvd.
Come the dawn of the 21st century, Mid-Town is still taking gutsy steps towards continuing St. Louis’ (not as celebrated as it should be) modern innovations. See the “making of” of the Tadao Ando-designed art museum (above) on their website, for more on the innovation tip. This and the Contemporary Art museum prove that modern still has a place in our city, and most certainly in mid-town…

3800 Block Washington
…since in 1957 half the block between Sarah and Vandeventer went Modern Village.

This is a fascinating chain of buildings, like a sample board of mid-century styles to choose from. The building above is part of the Loyola Academy, a Jesuit boys’ school, and has some wonderful textures and colors.

Next door, the varigated brick continues the theme before dropping off into limestone screens. This section belongs to the Celestial Temple of Peace.

Above, a miniature version of Suburban High School Modern…

…melds into Suburban Modern Church, which also belongs to Loyola Academy.

And the chain ends with a 1964 addition I call Kroger Modern, which now houses the Fortitude Foundation. The entire complex is now so low-key that it’s easy to overlook it. First glance reveals a level of dishelvement, but all the buildings are in use, and have aged well. I wonder how people reacted to this modern string of buildings back in the day; it’s such a novel concept to tear down existing buildings to put up a theme park of modern facades. But that it’s still here and functioning is a testament to a good idea.

Saran Wrapped

Michigan & Blow
South St. Louis, MO
That poor window… it reminds me of Roy Orbison.

Imagine the person who made the decision to smother it in shingles.
Imagine the hassle the roofers’ faced while doing so.
Imagine what it looks like from the inside.
What an odd, sad thing to do to that poor window…