The Doors of St. Louis Hills

St. Louis Hills is so enchanting, so perfect that it’s like being on a movie set. A sweet, nostalgic movie about the perfect city neighborhoods your grandparents lived in. Or being on a television show set, that lost episode of Family Affair where swinging city bachelor Bill decides Buffy & Jody need greenery and open air, but it must be in an urban setting.

It’s a gorgeous place, the architecture alone is deserving of the coffee table book treatment. The houses distinctly divide into two characters: pre-WW2 and post-WW2. If it were an album, it’d be Heart’s Dog & Butterfly. On the “Dog” side, there’s one really cool and queer detail that needs a spotlight: The Doors!

Most all of these ranch houses appear to have been originally built with matching front and garage doors. Decades of home improvements have sullied the mix, but enough remain to turn hunting for them into a leisurely sport.

Biking through the neighborhood on a holiday weekend morning, I collected as many doors as I could without making anyone uncomfortable. They are hastily taken, usually in poor lighting, and lots of the (most choice) garage doors were up because the owners were working in and/or out of them. I don’t have the time or the funds to do it properly, but still, it had to be done, because I just love them so damn much.

FRONT DOORS
The Doors of St. Louis Hills photos by Toby Weiss

GARAGE DOORS
The Garage Doors of St. Louis Hills photos by Toby Weiss
MATCHED SETS!
The Doors of St. Louis Hills photos by Toby Weiss
Special Note: Architecturally, the North Side & South Side of St. Louis City have many mirroring neighborhoods, but not nearly as many Door examples remain in the North. I’ve also seen versions in both North & South County, but nowhere is there a better concentration than St. Louis Hills Estates.

Independent Shoes


Trautwein’s Shoes
5227 Gravois, St. Louis, MO
Along the business section of Gravois in the shadow of Bevo Mill, storefront buildings are springing back to life thanks to the Bosnians, and the older businesess that have hung on up to this restoration renaissance.


But Trautwein’s closed sometime during the summer of 2003, and no one can figure out what to do with “the body.” The display window is a haunting reminder of what used to be, with shoes, decorations and declarations trapped like flies in prehistoric amber.

The mounted and laminated article in the window is from an April 12, 1989 South Side Journal, celebrating the shoe store’s 100 years of business. They moved from South Broadway to this Gravois location in 1923. In late 2002, I coveted a pair of shoes in the window and walked into buy them. It was like walking back into a time I’m too young to truly know, but the sense memory was overwhelming. One of the old men told me the shoe I wanted was not available in my size – check back in about a month when the new shipments come in. By the time I remembered to “check back,” the place was permanently closed.

While taking the above picture in summer 2004, the owner of a carpet business across the street came over to see what I was up to, and he filled me in. The elder Trautwein had died, the slightly less elder Trautwein was about to, and his daughter just didn’t know what to do about the store. Carpet Man then went into a mean-spirited diatribe about how Bosnians “buy all this stuff up,” and he wasn’t too pleased when I pointed out how they’ve brought this business section back to life with that horrible “buying up” habit of theirs.

Late fall 2004, and vandals busted in the front door, so now it’s borded up. Summer 2005, a deep mound of trash collects in front of the door. Somehow, some of the display shoes have toppled over, and the windows are beyond grimey. The daughter’s lack of activity has turned this place into a heartbreaking shrine, a fading momento of another era. It’s an unfitting ending; someone needs to show some respect and bury the body.
Before the door boarded up, I got this photo of the interior:

This just breaks my heart…literally.


Former Dreamland Shoe, Co.
Business District, Maplewood, MO
In 2002 (about a year before Trautwein’s demise), Dreamland was “Forced To Vacate After 53 Years.” At the time, a man at the hardware store a few doors down told me the building’s landlord had bigger plans that brought in bigger money. From the “after” picture (above, right) we see that T. Rohan Interiors expanded into the space.


Before it disappeared, I took quite a few shots of it, and in the process learned from a passerby that Dreamland was once supposedly a favorite of local drag queens because they specialized in large-size women’s shoes when no one else did.

While composing a daytime color shot, the owner unexpectedly walked out of his store and into the frame. I was stunned by this serendipitous event, and tried to say something, but I was overcome with sadness for him, and choked up. At least I have the photos of what he once had.

Odds ‘n Sods


New Target Under Construction
Hampton & Chippewa, St. Louis City
As a person who procures rather than shops, I only care about retail if it’s dead or dying, but the sight of the new Target going up makes me happy. I prefer to spend my money within the city limits, and with this store down for renovation, I’ve had to either drive to the county for necessities and sundries, or go to Walgreen’s. Aside from Walgreen’s being over-priced, they have a propensity for devouring south side bowling alleys, so I’m real uncomfortable about shopping there. I never realized how important that one city Target was to my financial, political and geographical life until it was gone. October 9th can’t come soon enough!


Major Brands’ Warehouse
Southwest Ave. @ Hwy 44
A section of aluminum siding came loose, exposing the glass that’s hidden beneath it. Every time I pass it, I imagine the very moment the siding came off…
Blasts of sunlight found the workers within, all of them looking up quizzically to the rays of light pouring through the tiny rectangle patch. Then their eyes twinkled with hope as a celestial choir sang of the beauty of blue skies, fresh air and natural light.

Directly behind the beverage distributor’s warehouse is the exact same version belonging to BSI Construction . They decided to leave the rows of glass exposed, and it’s a handsome reminder of America’s factory architecture, which had a utilitarian grace of its own. All that natural light cuts down on the lighting bills, operable windows can cut down on cooling bills. Nowadays, these kinds of measures are called Green Architecture; it used to be plain old common sense.


Revisiting Inappropriate in Brentwood
It now has a For Sale sign up, meaning it’s a spec house. Suprised, because I assumed it was being built for a specific childless family, since it has no backyard at all.

About 3 blocks south of this intersection, at High School Road & Litzsinger, are some completed houses that sprang up from a teardown. Since this market trend is only getting stronger, I hope other developers can be as conscientious about what they insert into existing neighborhoods as the developers who built the examples below. The scale, proportion and placement of surrounding homes was taken into consideration, and the new houses have made a genial effort to slide in gently. Here’s proof that it can be done appropriately, which makes the inappropriate even more offensive.

Don’t Try This At Home

Elaine, at Studio Staicoff in Portland, wrote:
“I especially liked the photo of the Royale bike rack. (though it’s begging for a graffiti addition…is there a pool to see how fast it’ll happen? See attached.)”

“With your permission, I would like to forward it to my friends at the Bicycle Transportation Alliance here in Portland. They’re a non-profit advocacy group that does good things for bicyclists in Oregon. I’m a member, and I’m volunteering on a project with them. I sit on a citizens advisory committee that is overseeing a major downtown mass transit improvement project. I’m representing the BTA and bicyclist interests on the project. So I get to say things like…”we need cool bike racks and here’s an example of one.”
Do you know who made the Royale rack?”

Does someone know exactly who crafted – and designed – the rack?

Celebrate STL


Original Keller Drugs marquee
Photo by Ken Konchel
In a previous post, helpful commentators filled in the missing info on the Hardt Building, and I finally found the photo of the old sign. It’s from the postcard version of a print by my absolute favorite architectural photographer under the age of 90 (Julius Shulman being my favorite, and he’s about 93), Ken Konchel.
Big bear hugs to Mr. Konchel for gladly allowing me permission to run his photo.

the royale by toby weiss
The Royale
South Kingshighway @ Juniata, St. Louis, MO
They installed
the coolest bike rack!!!
It’s advertising and public art for the new tavern, and convenient for imbibing urban bikers. All this without being forced to do so by laws we don’t have. Well played, and much appreciated.

the st. louis planetarium by toby weiss
James S. McDonnell Planetarium
Forest Park, St. Louis, MO
It’s the first day of summer, and I’m all aquiver with excitement over Mother Nature’s promise, when the one thing that stopped me dead in my tracks was the man-made Planetarium. It’s such a pure shape, elegant in its simplicity.
To my mind, the STL Modern Troika is the Arch, the Planetarium and Busch Stadium. They represent a 5-year period where St. Louis made assured and cultured statements with its civic architecture. For a brief moment, our city was emboldened by the future, and on this gorgeous summer day, I saw this sight (above), and felt the same.

Lowe’sville

Former Carondelet Saturday Morning Club photo by Toby Weiss
Loughborough & Grand Ave @ Hwy 55
A city block directly across from Carondelet Park
Mid-April, it was a typical and eclectic South Side block within a typical and thriving South Side neighborhood. By Memorial Day weekend it was a creepy and tattered ghost town. The attractive gets ugly for the sake of progress.

The story is better told here.The visuals add a chilling effect, and its Insta-Blight reminds me of descriptions of Depression-era Hoovervilles. Those areas were created in response to a national financial tragedy, while Lowe’sville is purposely created for the financial gain of a select group.
Nordyne under demolition photos by Toby Weiss
Empty Nordyne: Awaiting the ball – engaging the ball
Houses on Blow St. demolished for Lowe's photo by toby weiss
Blow St., back side of the block
While alive, these were the rattiest houses on the block, as they were stranded among parking lots for the Athletic Club, Schnuck’s and the Nordyne factory. On the day I photographed them, a dehydrated and derranged drunk stumbled out of the debris and slurred, “What you takin’ pictures of?”
“These houses,” I answered, holding my breath as he passed.
He rolled a few feet down Blow and yelled back, “Why? They’re dead!” The drunk eventually fell into Schnuck’s, who called an ambulance for him.

Grand Avenue houses demolished for Lowe's at Loughborough and 55, photos by Toby Weiss
Mid-block, Grand Ave.
Right next to these houses is the lone holdout. It was disconcerting to see a single house, pristine and decorated for the holiday, pretending the block was not crumbling around it. It was also a capsule comment on how ideal the block was just several weeks previous.

Demolished house at Grand and Loughborough, photo by Toby Weiss
Grand Ave. near Loughborough
The spelling’s off because they ran out of room, but still poignant.

Former house at corner of Loughborough and Grand photo by Toby Weiss
Corner house at Grand & Loughborough
Even as the family held a weekend “Moving Sale” in the house, Tarlton was stripping their garage.


Loughborough, facing the park
Seems the portion of Carondelet Park that will be facing the new retail city will, essentially, be dead. The city’s Parks Commission disagrees.

demolition at Loughborough and 55 for Lowe's photo by Toby Weiss
From Hwy 55 overpass
Even in a decomposing state, it’s a more compelling personality than what will replace it. But who needs character when you have cash?

Burnt Factory

Stone Center factory remains, Brannon Ave photo by toby Weiss
Brannon, between Arsenal & Flyler
South Side, St. Louis, MO
For anyone who’s ever marveled over the abandoned Stone Center (above), you were standing near Lecoutour Bros. Stair Mfg. At the beginning of May it burned bad, yet didn’t make the news – which loves a good fire – and the aftermath shows this was a
raging fire.

Nick Findley had free access to the area a couple of weeks after the blaze, but my timing was off. I went a few days after the fire – the place was still steamin’ – to take pictures like this:
Charred remains of stair mfg on Brannon Ave photo by Toby Weiss
As I took my 3rd go-round of Stone Center photos in as many years, a thin angry voice yells, “What are you doin’?!”
Charging down the sidewalk from the burnt Lecoutour was an upset, wirey woman, heading straight for me. I stopped snapping and watched her come at me, much like a june bug caught in the praying mantis trap.

“You’re on private property,” she fumes, as she now stands 6 feet from me.
I look down, look up at her, and say, “I’m on a public sidewalk.”
She glares. “You weren’t a minute ago, back there,” thumbing at the charred building.

This broad was wound tighter than Joan River’s face. Plus, in all of my years of private property photography, this was the first time I’d ever encountered hostility. So, I avoided eye contact, and slowly – so as not to alarm her – walked to my car.
She continued to glare at me, arms crossed holding herself, pacing like a pissed lionness, because I wasn’t moving fast enough. “Stay out of here.”

As I’m opening my car door, I quietly say, “Man, relax a little or they’ll think it’s arson.”
“WHAT??!?!”
She was now spitting mad. I shouldn’t have poked at a sore spot. I shouldn’t have made her paranoid by standing on private property and taking pictures like these:
Charred remains of Lecoutour Bros. Stair Mfg. photos by Toby Weiss

South Side Copies

art deco building at brannon and chippewa photo by Toby Weiss
NW Corner Chippewa & Brannon
South Side, St. Louis, MO
Elegant yet curious, a symphony of bricks explodes into deco. It’s often referred to as the Keller Building because of the Keller Apothecary still operating in the corner slot.

Frank Hardt Memorial Medical Building at Brannon and Chippewa, photo by Toby Weiss
Closer inspection reveals the building’s actual name, but hey, most everyone has a nickname. The round corner marquee was a burgundy and neon advert for Keller until it mysteriously disappeared a few years ago. At least the replacement was mindful of its surroundings and circles quietly. There are photos of it floating around. Once located – or contributed (hint) – they will be posted.
Art deco at Hampton Ave & Neosho photo by Toby Weiss
Hampton & Neosho
Less than a mile away is a muted, junior copy of the Frank Hardt building. Clearly, the same people were responsible for this building, but with only half the brick budget.

Inappropriate & Rotting


NE corner of Colorado & Iron
Neighborhood near Carondelet Park in South St. Louis
Someone made real on their desire for a steroidal suburban house in a thoroughly urban neighborhood. The money must have dried up, and here sits the shell, forlorn and overly-geometric, an abandoned hoosier castle atop a mud hill.

Neighborhood kids don’t even trespass the plastic orange fence for illicit play. That’s how freaky this thing is within context of the neighborhood.

My first thought upon discovering this misguided dream: reflief that they didn’t get to finish this inappropriate monster.
My lingering thoughts: how do we get rid of it? Does the Neighborhood Stabilization office handle complaints for enforced demolition?